Crispy Tofu Lo Mein

Crispy tofu is one of those things that's genuinely easy to do badly and not much harder to do well. The entire gap is in the preparation: dry tofu crisps, wet tofu steams. Firm tofu, patted completely dry with paper towels on every surface, is the only version worth frying. Everything else ends up with a soft, pale exterior that never gets there.

Heat the oil in a wide skillet over medium-high, and lay the tofu in a single layer. Cook undisturbed for 2 to 3 minutes per side until every surface is deeply golden. This isn't a double-fry situation; it's a patient single-pass fry where you just let each face have its moment with the hot pan. Pull the tofu and set aside.

The vegetable phase is short. Green cabbage goes in with a touch more oil, cooks 2 to 3 minutes until slightly softened but still crisp. Keeping the cabbage just past raw is the move. Overcooked cabbage turns sulfurous and flat; slightly crisp cabbage adds texture and a vegetable bite that balances the heavy tofu and noodles.

Garlic for 15 to 20 seconds. Then the sauce goes in directly over the hot vegetables: light soy, dark soy, sugar. Dark soy is used sparingly here, mostly for color. Use too much and the dish gets salty without getting more flavorful.

Egg noodles go in and get tossed over high heat for 1 to 2 minutes until glossy and evenly coated. High heat is important here; low heat stews the noodles and leaves them limp. The crispy tofu folds back in at the very end so its crust survives the sauce. Scallions, sesame seeds, serve immediately. It's a vegetarian lo mein that holds its own against any meat version at a Chinese restaurant.