Crispy Garlic Tofu Noodles

The double fry is the technique that separates professional-grade fried tofu from the home version. You fry once at a moderate temperature to cook the interior and build a pale golden crust. You rest. Then you fry again at a higher temperature, briefly, to drive off surface moisture and create a blistered, shatteringly crisp exterior. It's the same logic behind double-fried French fries, and it works for the same reasons.

Press the tofu first. At least 10 minutes under a weighted towel, longer if you have the time. Drier tofu makes a harder crust. Cube it, toss in cornstarch seasoned with salt until every surface is evenly coated.

First fry is at moderate heat for 3 to 4 minutes. The crust should come up pale golden, not deep amber. The interior finishes cooking through, the cornstarch sets into a starchy shell, but you leave plenty of surface moisture behind. Pull and drain on a wire rack. Let it rest for a full five minutes so the crust stiffens as it cools.

Second fry is at higher heat, shorter time. Two or three minutes and the crust blisters, darkens, and goes hard. This is where the shatter comes from. Drain again.

The sauce is built separately. Minced garlic in a splash of oil for 30 seconds. Soy, sriracha for the specific heat profile, sesame oil, sugar, rice vinegar, and vegetable stock. Bring to a simmer. Fresh ramen noodles go in and absorb the sauce as they soften, 3 or 4 minutes.

Top the noodles with the double-fried tofu and a handful of golden garlic chips, which are made by slow-frying thinly sliced garlic in a separate pan until crisp. Scallions, sesame, chili oil. The crust on the tofu will hold up against the sauce for at least 20 minutes, which is longer than any home cook needs to eat dinner.