Name: Foolproof: BBQ Chicken
Prep time: 240 min
Cook time: 60 min
Total time: 300 min
Yield: 6 servings
Cuisine: Asian
Ingredients: 3 to 4 lb bone-in, skin-on chicken drumsticks and thighs (no breast); 2 qt cold water; 1/2 cup Morton kosher salt (or 3/4 cup Diamond Crystal); 1 tsp baking soda (1/2 tsp if you're sensitive to alkaline flavors); 1 tbsp sugar (optional); 2 cups ketchup; 1/4 cup molasses; 1/3 cup brown sugar; 1/3 cup cider vinegar; 1/3 cup Worcestershire; 2 tbsp chili powder; 1 tsp each: garlic powder, onion powder, smoked paprika, dry mustard, black pepper; 1 1/2 cups mayonnaise; 1/4 to 1/2 cup vinegar; 1 tbsp prepared horseradish; 1 tbsp coarse black pepper; 1 tsp granulated garlic; 1 tsp dry mustard; 1/4 tsp each: cayenne and salt; 3 tbsp gochujang; 2 tbsp soy sauce; 2 tbsp honey; 1 tbsp rice vinegar; 1 tbsp toasted sesame oil; 3 cloves garlic, grated; 1 tbsp ginger, grated

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Foolproof: BBQ Chicken | Juicy, Crispy, Three Ways | Chef Fatty

Cook: 60 minTotal: 300 min

The story

Barbecue chicken gets treated like the boring option, but done right it's crispy-skinned, deeply seasoned, and almost impossible to dry out.

Two things make it. First, dark meat: it's loaded with fat and collagen, so unlike lean breast it stays juicy and shrugs off the heat. Second, a baking soda brine, the secret to the juiciest, most tender meat. Baking soda is alkaline, so it raises the meat's pH up to about 8.0, and higher-pH meat holds onto more water.

Then you cook it HOT, not low and slow (that's for brisket), so the skin's fat renders instead of turning rubbery. And you sauce it at the very end, because barbecue sauce is full of sugar and sugar burns bitter over heat. Three sauces here: Kansas City sweet, tangy Alabama white, and a spicy-sweet Korean gochujang.

servings

Equipment

A grill, oven, or smoker
A wire rack and sheet pan
Instant-read thermometer

Ingredients

The Chicken

3 to 4lbbone-in, skin-on chicken drumsticks and thighs (no breast)

The Baking Soda Brine

2qtcold water
1/2cupMorton kosher salt (or 3/4 cup Diamond Crystal)
1tspbaking soda (1/2 tsp if you're sensitive to alkaline flavors)
1tbspsugar (optional)

Kansas City Sauce

2cupsketchup
1/4cupmolasses
1/3cupbrown sugar
1/3cupcider vinegar
1/3cupWorcestershire
2tbspchili powder
1tspeach: garlic powder, onion powder, smoked paprika, dry mustard, black pepper

Alabama White Sauce

1 1/2cupsmayonnaise
1/4 to 1/2cupvinegar
1tbspprepared horseradish
1tbspcoarse black pepper
1tspgranulated garlic
1tspdry mustard
1/4tspeach: cayenne and salt

Korean Gochujang Sauce

3tbspgochujang
2tbspsoy sauce
2tbsphoney
1tbsprice vinegar
1tbsptoasted sesame oil
3clovesgarlic, grated
1tbspginger, grated

Method

Know Your Chicken

01
Dark meat only, skip the breast
Use bone-in, skin-on drumsticks and thighs. Breast is lean, with almost no fat or collagen, so it dries out the second you push it. Dark meat is the opposite.
Why dark meat
Dark meat's connective tissue melts into gelatin as it cooks and keeps the meat moist, which is why you can cook it hard and it won't dry out.
02
The baking soda brine (the secret)
Brine the chicken in salt water with a little baking soda. This is what makes it so juicy.
Why baking soda
Baking soda is alkaline, so it raises the meat's pH (this brine sits right at 8.0), and higher-pH meat holds onto a lot more water. That's juicier, more tender chicken. It's more potent than baking powder, which is why just a little does the job.

Brine and Dry

03
Brine 2 to 4 hours
Stir the salt and baking soda into the water until dissolved, submerge the chicken, and refrigerate 2 to 4 hours. This is your only salt.
Sensitive to alkaline?
Baking soda is potent and can taste faintly metallic if you overdo it. If you have a highly sensitive palate to alkaline flavors, cut the baking soda to 1/2 tsp.
04
Pat the skin dry
Pull the chicken and pat the skin really dry with paper towels. Dry skin crisps, wet skin steams. For even crisper skin, rest it uncovered on a rack in the fridge for an hour if you have time.

The Cook

05
Cook it HOT, not low and slow
Cook at 300 to 350°F on a smoker, a 425°F oven, or a two-zone grill (indirect, then sear skin-down). Never the classic 225.
Why hot, not low
Low and slow is for brisket. On chicken, low heat never gets the skin hot enough to render its fat, so you end up with thick, rubbery skin. Cook it hot and the fat renders and the skin crisps.
06
Cook to 175 to 195°F, not 165
Pull dark meat at 175°F minimum, 185 to 195°F is even better, probing the thickest part off the bone with an instant-read thermometer.
Why past 165
165°F is safe, but dark meat is full of collagen that only melts into soft, juicy gelatin up around 175 to 195. So you push past the safety line on purpose and the meat gets more tender, not less. You can't dry out a thigh in that window.
07
Sauce it LAST
Cook the chicken naked, then brush the sugary sauces (KC, gochujang) on only in the last 5 to 15 minutes, in thin coats. Mop the Alabama white on after it comes off the heat.
Why sauce last
Barbecue sauce is loaded with sugar, and sugar scorches black and bitter around 265°F, way below grill heat. And the Alabama white is mayo-based, so it splits into greasy curds over heat, that one goes on after.

The Three Sauces

08
Kansas City (sweet)
Simmer all the KC ingredients 20 to 30 minutes until thick and glossy. Brush on late.
09
Alabama white (tangy)
Whisk all the Alabama white ingredients cold and chill at least an hour. Tangy, peppery, not sweet, no ketchup. Mop it on after the cook.
10
Korean gochujang (spicy-sweet)
Warm all the gochujang ingredients 3 to 5 minutes until glossy. Brush on late, then finish with sesame seeds.

Chef's note

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